In the steps of an monster... with some fondue afterward

June 21, 2018

Let me just say again how much I love Chamonix.  It has Alpine adventures for everyone that is inclusive of almost any age or fitness level.  I have wanted on past trips to go up the huge gondola to the top of the 3842 meter-high Aiguille du Midi, but I held back due to the price.  This time, we had planned to bite the bullet and do it, and the weather was perfect this morning.  We arrived at the lift station which was only a couple minute walk from our apartment only to find out that they were doing maintenance work on the cables and it wouldn’t be open until next month.  Probably just as well because that did save us some money, and I need something to look forward to when we make it back someday. 

Instead, we walked over to the Chemin de Fer du Montenvers – the mountain train that takes its riders close to the Mer de Glace – the largest of the glaciers near Chamonix and the location of the Frankenstein monster’s hideout in the novel by Mary Shelley.  I say that the train gets riders close to the Mer de Glace because the glacier has been shrinking for years.  I am not a scientist or a politician so I will make no comment on global warming, but it was amazing to me to see the markings of past years showing how high the glacier extended into its valley only a few years ago.  At first they built a gondola going down to the glacier from the end of the train line, and now they have added stairs each year as the glacier continues to shrink.  There are now about 500 stairs that you have to do down (and eventually climb back up) to actually visit the glacier up close - and that's still after descending in the gondola. Looking at drawings from Mary Shelley's day, it looks like the glacier used to come up almost to the train station!

In the past, I have hiked the trail to the Mer de Glace, but this time, I was ok taking the train and gondola – we still got a pretty good workout on the 500 stairs each way.  The trip is well worth it as workers carve an ice cave every year.  There is an ice carving of bear inside and then rooms that are made to feel like you are in a house of ice – chairs, couches, fireplace and a bar area all carved out of the ice.  It’s an amazing experience, and the kids loved it (and to be honest, it is significantly cheaper than the ride to the top of the Aiguille du Midi).

After making our way down the mountain, we went over to park on the edge of town that has a summer luge run on medal rails – Becky and went once, but Zac and Katie were able to go multiple times.  Katie particularly loved it and got to point where she didn’t use the brakes at all. 

Figuring we had to eat fondue while in the Alps, we splurged a little and found a restaurant in the old town part of Chamonix (of course, Katie ordered pizza anyway).  Overall, an amazing day!